My interest in surfing extends so far as it contributes to human flourishing.
What a genuine delight to look out at the ocean and its waves and know that the playground of moving water is available, and accessible, to you.
Life on land is a constant barrage of noise—some self-inflicted and some unavoidable.
To peel away from one reality and immerse yourself in the patient rhythm of the ocean is to temporarily reclaim your place in nature.
You can make the next bit of input appear faster on your device, but you cannot make the next wave come any sooner than it is going to come.
Whatever place surfing holds in your life, make sure it's contributing to your overall wellbeing.
Don't get caught up worrying about whether you're holding your hands in just the right way, or trying to perform some particular trick on the wave. Just enjoy the fleeting moments spent riding a wave—being propelled down the beach by the long-traveled energy of the ocean.
The older I get, the more interested I am in the parts of surfing that make it easier to participate. Surfboards that paddle well and catch a lot of waves. Boards you don't have to think twice about throwing in the truck, lending to a friend, or taking your kids out on.
This is a big part of what we've tried to accomplish with the R-Series. Make really useful surfboards that remove a little bit of the friction between you and going surfing.
Because ultimately, the point isn't to own the right surfboard. The point is to go surfing.
Then, return to land refreshed and slightly more prepared to take on whatever barrage soup the day has waiting for you.
And come back to the water as often as you need.
